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Trip Report - Spring 2000 Lewis and Debra Demler |
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This was our earliest spring trip to Yellowstone. We have gone in late June, but never before in May. This was also the first official migration of the Yellowstone Loon. This Trip Report covers the period from Thursday, May 25, 2000 through Monday, June 5, 2000. We flew into Jackson Hole on Thursday, May 25, 2000. We stayed at the Silver Gate Cabins from May 25 through May 30. We moved into the park and stayed at the Old Faithful Inn from May 30 through June 1. We then moved to a cabin at the Old Faithful Lodge from June 1 through June 4. We finished our trip at the Flat Creek Motel in Jackson, Wyoming, staying the night of June 4. We returned to Pennsylvania on Monday, June 5, 2000. We hope you enjoy reading this Trip Report as much as we did putting it together. Lew and Deb |
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Thursday, May 25, 2000
After we collected our baggage and got the rental car, we headed for Yellowstone. It started to sprinkle just as we left the airport. Between Moose and Moran Junction, we saw 4 herds of bison, the largest we'd even seen in Grand Teton, plus several lone bulls grazing and lazing amongst the sagebrush. The bison, plus several antelope, were a great way to start our trip. As we approached the entrance gate to Grand Teton, it started to pour. Lew's arm was soaked by the time he paid for our pass and got all the material from the ranger.
Back on the main road, we noticed quite a few cars pulled over at Pilgrim Creek. We stopped to check it out and found we were a few minutes too late to see a grizzly in the creek. We stood at the side of the road for a few minutes to enjoy the heady aroma of the pines. As we were getting back in the car, we noticed two guys come out of the woods from the direction that the grizzly was last spotted. Our first idiot sighting!
We saw our first elk, a cow, just before the first Continental Divide sign, which was surprising because we usually don't see elk in that area. There were three more at West Thumb.
We saw our first bison in the Black Sand basin area and a young bull elk near Biscuit Basin. The little guy had velvet stubs about 6 inches long. The Fountain Flats bison herd was in its usual place and part of the Madison herd was along the Gibbon River east of Tuff Cliffs. They were accompanied by a rather large elk herd as well. We stopped to see two large bull elk in velvet sharing the Gibbon Meadows area with a few bison and many peeping frogs.
We saw two antelope between Blacktail Deer Creek and the Children's Fire Trail and a small herd once we got to Little America. There were also several deer at the edge of the woods just before Little America.
The Lamar was as beautiful as ever, just washed by the passing storm. It was filled with scattered elk and bison herds. None of the pullouts seemed especially promising, so we headed on to Silver Gate to get to our cabin before dark.
On our first day we saw a grizzly bear, 7 moose and tons of bison, elk, antelope and deer. Not bad for just passing through the park. We did not see any loons, though |
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Friday, May 26, 2000 We got up around 6:45 MDT, sleeping in for us on Eastern time. It rained heavily over night and it rained off and on all morning. We took a short trip up to Cooke City to check it out and find the Soda Butte Lodge, since we were planning to eat there a few times. We headed into the park. On the way in between the Thunderer trail head and the Pebble Creek trail head we saw elk, deer and a few bison. Pebble Creek campground was still closed. Just past Pebble Creek, we saw another herd of elk. Driving through the Lamar Valley, we saw several small bison herds on either side of the road. The rain had stopped by the time we got down to the Lamar. There were patchy blue areas scattered among all the clouds. We hoped that the rain was over for the day. Right across from the Buffalo Ranch, we saw a herd of 8 antelope lying down on one of the benches. On the next higher bench, an elk herd was also lying down. There were bison scattered all over the place, grazing. Across the Lamar River bridge, there was a lone antelope. As we approached the small woods before the Yellowstone picnic area, we saw several deer grazing the hillside.
We headed on out to Gardiner to pick up some groceries. On the way out, Lew spied a truck flying a yellow antenna flag. It was stopped at one of the pull outs. The truck was visible for quite a distance because of the flag. Deb rolled down her window and started waving frantically so they wouldn't leave. When we got a little closer, Lew saw it was the Oldtymr's license plate. We pulled in and shared hugs all around. Geri and Deb were jumping with joy at meeting for the first time. We had a nice visit before we headed on to Gardiner and Geri and Bruce went on to Mammoth. We got our groceries and started back toward Mammoth. A herd of antelope greeted our arrival back at the pullout where we met up with the Oldtymrs. We discussed stopped at the campground to see if we could find Dan, but decided he probably wouldn't be there in the middle of the day. We drove on through Mammoth and were making a beeline for the Lamar, when we spied Bruce and Geri at the side of the road adjusting their Loon flag. We stopped and discussed the mechanics of attaching the flag to an antenna. The antenna on our rental did not seem too sturdy, so we put the flag in the rear side window. Bruce had rigged theirs up with electrical tape, which needed some modifications. Geri mentioned they had run into Dan at lunch in Mammoth and that he had headed back to his camp to get some rest. It was good we didn't stop to see him.
Back on the road, we noticed several bull elk were lounging around the trail to Wraith Falls. They were all sprouting their new antlers in velvet. A couple of them already had impressive racks. We ran into the Oldtymrs again at the third pullout in the Lamar Valley. They had a pair of black bears in one scope and a bald eagle in the other, so we stopped to check them out. As we were standing there, Dave and Sue pulled up, and we finally got to meet Sue. She had been unable to attend our Pre-Loonion get together. A short while after they arrived, it began to rain again, so we headed back to the cabin. We just made it into the cabin when it really started to pour. By the time we put our groceries away, the rain had eased up so we decided to head back to the Lamar. At Pebble Creek we saw a deer. Just past the confluence, we saw a herd of antelope and a few elk. We spied another Loon flag at one of the smaller pullouts between the Buffalo Ranch and the third pullout. It was Sandi and Rick and their niece Shelbi. We said hello and chatted for awhile, but we hadn't gotten into the full Loon hug greeting yet, so we were still a little reluctant to use it upon the uninitiated. We were going to met Geri and Bruce at the third pullout, but by the time we got there, they had left. We figured the rain had chased them away. Rick McIntyre was at the pullout and we got to talk to him. We mentioned that we had sponsored a wolf collar and that 147M was wearing it. He said that 147M had been seen on the bench across the Lamar that afternoon. In the morning he had been seen down with the Rose Creek pack. He had been sighted for the previous 5 days in the area between the Rose Creek pack and the middle of the Lamar Valley. 147M had been spending a good bit of time alone and had been making kills on his own, which proves he's an eligible bachelor. He hasn't found a mate yet. He appeared to have injured his one front paw and was limping a little. Rick speculated that he may have stepped on a sharp stone or got stepped on by an elk that he brought down by himself near the Buffalo Ranch. He said to check back anytime when we were out in the Lamar and if he was not busy he would scan for 147M.
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Saturday, May 27, 2000 We got on the road around 6:00 a.m., hoping to see some wolves in the Lamar. We saw three deer near the Northeast entrance gate and two more a short distance into the park. We passed several small herds of elk. When we left the cabin, there had been some fog around the mountains. The further we got into the park, the more the fog moved in. Just past the Thunderer trail head, we spied a large, dark coyote (a wolf?, nah, just a coyote) moving through the fog down to the road. We stopped at Slough Creek and waited at the first unpaved pullout for the fog to clear. Once it did, there wasn't any activity there. We moved back to the entrance to Slough Creek and stopped to talk to some people who had been waiting there. They said that Rick McIntyre was up on Dave's Hill and had gotten a radio signal from a wolf to the south. We walked up the hill to talk to him and he confirmed that it was 147M. No one had gotten a visual on him, however. Rick had also gotten signals from some Rose Creek members out towards Slough Creek. We got the scope and the cameras out and set up on the hill. We never did get to see any wolves.
We also saw a couple of coyotes tear across the flat area near the parking lot. We met Nathan Varley on our way down the hill, but chatted only for a moment since he was with some clients.
Along the Gibbon, just past Beryl Spring, we saw a coyote lying in a bison wallow right next to a big pile of bison dung. We stopped to get a picture, because the pile of dung was almost as big as the coyote. Unfortunately, there was a fisherman there and he chose that moment to move upstream near the coyote. The coyote jumped up, swam across the river and ran off up the hill. Gibbon Meadows was full of elk, a huge herd. On the Norris to Canyon road, at the service road area, a coyote was pacing back and forth, wanting to cross the road. We stopped to let him go, but the oncoming traffic wasn't slowing down. We drove slowly past as he continued to pace, looking for a better opportunity to cross the road.
Just before the Calcite Springs overlook, we saw six big horn ewes on the cliffs across the Yellowstone. There we also two rock rams below them on the hillside. We stopped in the Lamar, but we were skunked again by the Druids. We finally called it a night as it started to rain again. The animals must have been upset that we had deserted them for geysers, because we didn't even see any moose or deer on the way to the cabin. |
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Sunday, May 28, 2000 It rained heavily over night. We thought one storm had started as hail since our cabin reverberated with the pounding on the tin roof. We headed for Mammoth around 8:15. After the bison delay yesterday, we wanted to make sure we had plenty of time to get there for the web cam shots. We had no time for wolf watching, unless we spied one right along the road. On the way into the park, Lew reminded the ground squirrels that he was still master of the road. We were driving very slowly, looking for animals, when a ground squirrel ran between our wheels, We were hoping he had enough sense to stop, but he didn't, and our back wheel caught him square on.
By now, it was time to head out to the Lamar for the informal church service conducted by Tim W. and Jay. It started to rain on the way out. As we crossed the bridge over the Yellowstone, just past Roosevelt junction, we ran into a bear jam. We pulled off the road and saw there was a young black bear coming up from the river. We watched for awhile until he looked like he was going to cross the road. We got back to our car and were just ready to get in, when he started to cross the road two cars up from us. He was very confused by all the commotion being made over him. We waited by our car until he made it across and then watched him disappear up the hill. It was raining heavily when we arrived at Slough Creek, but we all decided to wait it out. In a few minutes the rain ended and Tim W. led us in a very moving service. We offered thanks and praise to God for all the wonders that are Yellowstone. After the service we joined JT and John as they checked out the new radio. We moved down to the first unpaved parking area at Slough Creek. While we were there, JT picked up a report on the radio that three wolves had been spotted down at the confluence. We headed in that direction. Across from the Buffalo Ranch, we spied a coyote in the flats. When we got to the stock pullout, we saw Rick McIntyre, so we stopped to talk to him. He said all the collared wolves were at the den and that 147M had been tracked at the Rose Creek area in the morning. While we were there, we spotted two big horn rams, one with a full curl, one with half, up on the ridge to the west. We went on down to the Lamar River trail head and met up with a bunch of the Loons. We spotted the big horn sheep again from there and saw a nice coyote down along the Soda Butte Creek. A black bear was in the same vicinity, just a little higher up on the hill.
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Monday, May 29, 2000 We got up around 6:30 and headed up to Cooke City to fill up our tank. All the traveling we had been doing, down to Old Faithful and out to Mammoth, not to mention the drive in, had really gulped the gas. On the way up to Cooke City we saw a deer bounding away from the road. On the way back down to the entrance, a gray squirrel attempted to commit suicide, but we were able to avoid him, when he had second thoughts at the last minute. We stopped at the confluence pullout since there were quite a few people there. Deb asked them what they had seen so far, and they said they had seen a sow grizzly with two cubs, another grizzly and a black bear. They still had one of the grizzlies in the scope at that time. Deb didn't want to stop, but Lew wanted to look at the grizzly. She really wanted to go look for wolves, since we hadn't seen any this trip yet. Deb won out, but she will never hear the end of how she didn't want to stop for "only" grizzlies We headed down to Slough Creek where there was a black bear to the south. He was scouting around trying to find an elk calf. Several people had seen the mother elk charge the bear, but we didn't get to see that. The bear wandered around for awhile and eventually disappeared in the trees. We went back to the Lamar River trail head to see if anyone else showed up. John, Geri and Bruce, Dan and Tim A., Wolflady, Wendy and Ray T. were there. We stayed around for awhile, saw an elk out on the bench that appeared to be upset, but no wolves were in sight. There were two sandhill cranes on the next bench above the elk. We also saw several kestrels hovering above the Soda Butte Creek and across the road toward Druid Peak. By 9:00 a.m., nothing appeared to be happening, so we decided to head up to the Soda Butte Lodge for breakfast. When we were almost in Silver Gate, we saw a deer crossing the road. We had a great time at breakfast as Wolflady regaled us with tales of mating bears and we solved all the problems of Yellowstone. It's always fun to share a meal with good friends. We decided to spend about an hour driving toward the Beartooth Pass and then turn around and come back. We wound up driving the whole way up to the pass, taking about 4 hours to make the round trip. The trip back had much better views that the trip up. We should have waited until the return trip to take pictures. The only animals we saw on the way up were some marmots. On the way back down, we saw a lonely elk calf lying next to a rock in a meadow. It's mother was no where to be seen and ravens were flying overhead. We hoped the mother was over the ridge and would return soon. We returned to the park for evening wolf (we hoped) viewing. Just before Ice Box Canyon, there was a young bull moose across the Soda Butte Creek. His antlers were small, heart-shaped buds. We met up with John, Wendy and Tim A. at the Lamar River trail head. We scanned the slopes and the Soda Butte Creek for awhile, but we didn't see anything. John got a report on the radio that there were some grizzlies down at the picnic area. We decided to go check them out. There was one grizzly there. Everyone got excited when we heard on the radio that the wolves were moving. We went back to the Lamar River trail head and sat there for awhile. Rick McIntyre came over the radio and said it would probably be better to be down at the picnic area or west of the picnic area, so we packed up one more time and headed that way. The picnic area was a mad house by the time we got there, so we moved west and pulled off the road. At the top of the peak to the north, we found another grizzly moving around in what appeared to be a bone yard. There were elk bones scattered everywhere. The grizzly eventually disappeared over the top of the mountain. About this time, Ballpark Frank and Geri and Oldtymr joined us. In a short while, two wolves came over the ridge, a black and a gray. Unfortunately, they were visible for only a minute or two and then disappeared in a draw. Many ravens were flying overhead, so we figured the wolves were at a kill. The ravens circled for a long time, while several small elk herds were moving nervously about. Tim A. picked up a black bear with two cubs south of the Lamar. A short time later, Ballpark found a grizzly sow with two cubs on a ridge to the west. We watched several bison making the hazardous crossing of the Lamar. They would get swept down the river before they finally made it across. The valley was filled with the usual elk and bison herds and a few antelope scattered here and there. We kept checking for the wolves, but they never did reappear. We saw a grizzly back at the top of the mountain to the north, so we figured it was the same one we had seen earlier. After a beautiful sunset, It eventually got too dark to see much of anything, so we headed back for our last night a Silver Gate. About 100 yards from the turnoff for our cabin, we saw a deer, the last animal of the day. |
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To Be Continued |